Chillies farming guide

Binomial Name:Capsicum

Varieties:Anaheim, Ancho, Black Hungarian, Cayenne, Habañero, Jalapeño, Large Red Cherry, Orange Habañero, Pimento, Poblano, Red Cherry, Red Habañero, Serrano, Small Red Cherry, Tabasco, Thai Hot, Yellow Wax.

Capsicum

Conditions: Sow ¼" deep in a well-drained starting medium. 

-Seeds require lots of warm to germinate; medium should be between 25-30 °c.

-Using a heat mat, available at home and garden store and elsewhere, can help to ensure ideal conditions. Additionally, young starts will fare much better with additional light. Place in a window or sunny location that receives lots of southern or southwestern sun exposure.

-Consider supplementing with artificial lighting if possible. Set plants out 2 to 3 weeks after average last frost when the soil has warmed and the weather has settled.

-Peppers can be temperamental when it comes to setting fruit if temperatures are too hot or too cool. -Nighttime temperatures below 15 or above 23°c can reduce fruit set.

-Plant them 12 to 24 inches apart, in rows 24 to 36 inches apart, or spaced about 14 to 16 inches apart in raised beds.

-Do not rush to transplant your starts outdoors. Select a location that receives plenty of light and heat, and has not been used for tomatoes, potatoes or other members of this family for several years.

-Peppers will do best with soil that is fertile, lightweight, slightly acidic (pH5.5-7.0) and well-drained.

-Wait until soil temperatures exceed 10 degrees Celsius at all times before placing into the ground. Pepper plants should be fairly close to one another, so that there is slight contact between plants.

Planting: Peppers need a steady supply of water for best performance. If fertilizing, be careful not to overdo it on nitrogen as this can deter fruit growth.

-Organic fertilizers and soil should be rich in phosphorus, potassium and calcium. Mulching with black plastic or similar material is a good way to maintain heat and soil moisture.

Additionally, floating row covers over your beds can help to protect against cold early in the growing season.

Use caution with row covers not to overheat plants and cause them to drop their blossoms. Stake tall varieties for earlier and heavier harvest.

Pests and diseases

1.Bacterial spot- Water-soaked lesions that dry out and turn brown forming on the underside of the leave; raised brown cankers on stems; cracked brown lesions on fruit.

Bacterial spot

2.Damping-off- Seeds did not germinate; seedlings collapsing and dying; dark stems which are shriveled near the soil line; water-soaked lesions on the stem; water-soaked discolored roots.

3.Powder mildew- White, powdery growth on underside of leaves which starts in patches but starts to spread acrosswhole leaves, including the top surface; yellow-brown discoloration on underside of leaves; leaves curling.

Powdery mildew

4.Mosaic- Alternating light and green areas or mosaic patterns on the leaves; leaves distorted and curled; slow plant growth.

5.Fusarium wilt- Yellowing of foliage and wilting upper leaves; wilting spread to all parts of plant; leaves remain attached to plant and are dark green in color; red-brown discoloration of vascular tissue; plant death.

6.Phytophthora blight - Black lesions on stems; wilting plant; circular gray-brown lesions on leaves; dark lesions on fruit which may be covered in white sporangia.

7.Southern blight - Sudden wilting of leaves; yellowing foliage; browning stem above and below soil; browning branches; stem may be covered with fan-like mycelial mat.

Southern blight

8.Beet armyworms

9.Flea beetles

Flea beetle

10.Leafminers.

Leafminers

11.Aphids

12.Tomato fruit worm (Corn earworm)

Tomato fruit worm

13.Leafroller (Omnivorous leafroller)

14.Pepper weevil.

Pepper weevil larvae

Pepper weevil

15.Thrips (Western flower thrips, Onion thrips, etc.)

16.Spider mites (Two spotted spider mite)

17.Cabbage worm.

Cabbage worm

Harvesting: Peppers will turn green when starting to approach maturity. They can be harvested at this point, or allowed to ripen on the plant.

-If collected early, plants will continue to flower and fruit more frequently, though this early collection might result in differences in flavor if using fresh.

-Use a scissors or snip to cut branches and harvest peppers. Do not remove by hand as plants can be easily damaged.

Drying chilli peppers and storing seeds:The shelf life of your chili peppers can be extended many times over by drying your peppers and storing them in an airtight container.

-To expedite the process, a home food dehydrator can be used to safely take the moisture out of your peppers.

-Otherwise, place your fresh peppers onto a cookie sheet and 'bake' at the lowest setting (approximately 50 degrees Celsius or lower)with the oven for several hours to gradually dry out the peppers.

-Turn peppers frequently, and make sure peppers are not being overheated.If neither a food dehydrator or oven is available, peppers can be dried naturally in the sun or even in a well-lit window.

-This process may take several days, even with hot dry conditions. Peppers can be placed on a flat surface in a sunny location.

-Turn periodically to ensure that they dry out evenly. Once peppers are slightly brittle and tough, they can be stored in airtight containers and saved for future use.

Seeds: Cut your favorite variety of pepper in half. All of the seeds inside are most likely viable and you can use them to grow the same variety of pepper in containers or in a sunny garden spot.

-Collect the seeds and lay them flat on a paper towel for 24 hours. Label the plastic bag with the permanent marker with the name or variety of the pepper seeds.

-Place the seeds inside for planting.Keep the seeds in a cool, but not cold, dark area until you are ready to start them.

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